A Cut Above: Diamond Faceting at the Mughal Court
This lecture delves into the dynamic exchange of knowledge, techniques, and gemstones between the Mughal Courts of India (1526-1858) and the leading European cutting centers in Antwerp, Amsterdam, Paris, and London. While traditional narratives of diamond cutting often focus solely on European developments, this talk seeks to illuminate the significant, yet often overlooked, contributions of Indian and Middle Eastern gemological expertise. We will explore how Indian and Middle Eastern traders, scholars and artisans not only supplied the raw materials but also imparted crucial knowledge that shaped the evolution of diamond faceting styles. By examining historical texts and artifacts, we will highlight the intricate ways in which Indian and Middle Eastern innovations influenced and interacted with European cutting techniques. Additionally, we will reveal how Mughal faceting styles, while sometimes reflecting European tastes and technologies, also showcased a sophisticated understanding of diamond crystal structures and optical properties. This talk will shed light on how the Mughal Courts’ unique faceting techniques contributed to the global diamond trade and enriched the broader narrative of gemology and jewelry design.